One would never imagine a Thai restaurant to look the way Celadon Royal Thai Cuisine does. For a moment, one gets disoriented by the seemingly incongruous modern designs that clash with all assumptions of how a Thai restaurant should look. But the minute the Thai spices hit one’s nasal cavity, everything is as it should be.

So, why did Thanee Laivarintr, the Thai owner of the restaurant and architect-cum-restaurateur, choose an all-white theme instead of something traditional?

“The trend is for a bright concept in restaurants these days,” explains Elyna Tan, group marketing manager of Sea Cuisine, on behalf of Thanee who was out of town during the interview. The company that he founded, Sea Cuisine, owns and operates Celadon, which is on the sixth floor of Pavilion KL, and 13 other Thai-inspired restaurants in Malaysia.

Once inside the restaurant, customers are greeted by a large Italian crystal chandelier. It commands full attention and was purchased in Malaysia for several thousand ringgit, giving the restaurant an air of luxury.
Another eye-catcher are the black-and-white prints of female and male busts on the backrest of most of the chairs.

“These are actually faces of people from a Thai myth,” says Tan. This detail actually lends itself nicely to free-seating dinner parties, where the host can allocate seating for ladies and gentlemen without resorting to place cards.

Besides the all-white mien of this 2,500 sq ft space, there are a myriad of hues that break the monotone.
To the right of the entrance, along one wall, is a fabric art feature where colourful cushions are arranged in standing order above banquettes with dimpled backrests. Directly opposite, perfect for girly parties, are passion fruit red sofas bordered by shelves of neatly arranged champagne bottles.

Close by is an elevated section that is just nice for twosomes or foursomes or, if requested, the tables can be arranged into a long one catering for lunch or dinner parties. The demarcation of this space is facilitated by a slated panel, ensuring enough distance from the main dining area while still providing a sense of privacy.

But if privacy is what one is looking for, two private rooms are available, although one would be considered pseudo-private — it faces the front of the restaurant, which means passers-by can look into the room through a large clear-glass window. The other room is situated inside the restaurant, ensuring no prying eyes. Both rooms are designed with modern touches — Philippe Starck ghost chairs and Artemide light fixtures — giving the rooms an elegant touch.

Like the décor, the food is tastefully planned. Thanee has not only ensured the restaurant engages one’s sense of sight and touch — making the place conducive for a meal — but also that taste buds are stimulated by authentic Thai cuisine cooked by Thais.

“If you enter the kitchen now, you will see a Thai chef cooking the food,” says Tan proudly. Unlike other restaurants that may employ one Thai chef to train others, Sea Cuisine not only has a Thai head chef in each of its restaurants, but the sous chefs are Thai as well.

Moreover, says Tan, the ingredients used are of the best quality, such as juicy tiger prawns. Although most of the ingredients can be found in Malaysia, certain items like bitter leaves and basil come directly from Thailand. “I have an agent in Hadyai that imports the items,” Tan explains.

Celadon Royal Thai Cuisine may have strayed from tradition with its modern décor but the essence of its origins remains intact in its hospitality and flavoursome food.

Celedon Royal Thai Cuisine
Lot 6.37, Level 6 Pavilion Kuala Lumpur
Jalan Raja Culan, 50200 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: (03)2148 8708; Fax: (03) 2148 8710
Business hours:
Monday to Sunday - Noon to 10pm
url: www.seacuisince.com.my (click on Celedon)

This article appeared in haven, Issue #36, April + May 2009, the deco and garden publication of The Edge Malaysia